frostytree.JPG We had hardly slept and the long drive south to Switzerland, through fairytale woods and villages, at least gave us a chance to rest. Although Ed and Cez slept, I refused to shut my eyes — the forests of Bavaria were covered with a layer of pure white frost — truly magical.

bavariaOutside of Zurich we picked up a hitchhiker. She was a middle-aged German woman with dark sunglasses and burgundy lipstick that over-ran her mouth. She said she was trying to get to the mountains because she was hoping to see some snow. Freddy agreed to take her as far as Bern — she could find her own way to the mountains. I offered her a clementine and she greedily accepted it. She sat next to Ed, who was mad that he couldn’t keep sleeping. She tried to talk to him but he wasn’t having it, convinced that she was some kind of witch. He seemed relieved when we dropped her off.

kerzers.JPGKerzers was half farm town and half bedroom community for Bern — with barns and yards of horse manure alternating with the pharmacies and restaurants. We were shown our hotel, a luxurious horse-themed establishment, and treated to a fancy Italian dinner of pear pizza and antipasto. We saw a bunch of local youths at a nearby table and invited them to come down to the show. They ended up coming, which was a good thing since there wasn’t a big crowd. Even though it was small, folks were receptive to the music, dancing and talking to us in between sets. We had the idea on the way to Kerzers to play Desconocido differently — more like a New Order-inspired jam than the usual African highlife style that we play it. We tried it out and it came out great — Ed and I pulled off some mind-reader shit and spontaneously came up with harmonizing bass and guitar lines, while Cez did his best to do the Kraftwerk. This new arrangement became an obsession during the tour and we continued to play it almost every night.